Few Homemade Non-Toxic Cleaners to help with all your Household Cleaning (Part 5)

Continuing with our month old series of methods to make non toxic green cleaners with regular items in your own home to help you keep the planet clean and green.

• Homemade Cleaning methods for Cast-Iron Cookware.

Compared to the widely used Teflon cookware, Cast-Iron cookware might be heavy, but they are durable and can last for generations.

Well that was the good bit about cast iron cookware, but it also has a downside too. Like how our beloved cast iron cookware demands unconditional love and care from us. It needs to be seasoned and protected from rust and what not.

So without any further adieu let us get on with it now shall we.

Fats and oils are mostly used to season cast iron. Our grandmothers usually recommended using rendered lard and tallow but now-a-days flaxseed and soy bean are considered to be a wonderful and at times the best alternatives.

You can always use Coconut oil as well, since it is such a healthier alternative but we do have a few other methods for you as well.

Seasoning Cast Iron Cookware

Now there are is a single method that we have on our hands but it comes with a couple of preparatory options that you can use to tackle this little bugger of a situation, so have a look.

The Preparation:

Optional Step #1: If the cookware you have bought has come pre-seasoned, then you better take a look at the type of oil that went into the process of seasoning. The one mostly used in such situations is GMO soybean oil. If you do not like the idea of your cookware being pre-seasoned then have a look below at the methods of what to do when cast-iron cookware is rusted and use it to get rid of the said oil.

Optional Step #2:  If your pan is slightly brownish consider bake it at 400-450F for atleast an hour or more prior to seasoning it.

This method is believed to help develop a layer of magnetite on the surface. Magnetite is an iron oxide which is seemingly thought to be protective against corrosion.

Overtime, cooking of different items on high heat on the cookware will make the cookware transition from brown to black.

The Method: 

1. Rub cocnut oil or any other fat like tallow or lard on the inside and outside of the pan in question using a paper towel.
2. Make sure to rub it thoroughly into every single nook and cranny.
3. Then take another paper towel and wipe the pan until it looks completely dry.
4. Place pan upside down in a cold oven. Although there shouldn’t be any drips, but just to be safe use a baking sheet or piece of foil to be place beneath it to catch any errand drips.
5. Turn the oven on to 400 – 450F.
6. When it reaches the desired temperature, set a timer for 1 hour and allow it to bake.
7. When the hour is complete, turn off the oven but do not under any circumstances open the door.
8. Allow the pan to cool for a couple of hours before removing.

Congratulations on seasoning your first ever cast iron pan .

Even after going through all this if you still feel as if the pan is still sort of sticking, repeat the process several more times. Add as many cycles as needed.

For further care use as many healthy fats as you can while cooking, since they help with the seasoning.

Cleaning Cast Iron Cookware

As you already know, or if you don’t then we are here to tell you, that you should never soak cast iron cookware along with any cleaning agent like soap or detergent as if may strip the surface or the said cookware.

The best way to clean it would be to use a stiff bristled brush along with some searing hot water and voila! There you have it, a freshly cleaned cast iron pan.

Removing Rust from Cast Iron Cookware

Cast iron is vulnerable to oxidation if not properly seasoned and activities like boiling water and cooking acidic foods like tomato can aid the oxidation process.

So, here is how to remove rust and restore the protective finish of cast iron cookware.

What to use…

• Potato
• Baking soda or salt
• Coconut oil

The Method:

1. Cut the potato in half.
2. Dip the cut in baking soda.
3. Rub over rusted surface.
4. If the end of the potato becomes slippery to touch, cut it off at the tip and then re-dip in baking soda.
5. Repeat until rust is completely removed.
6. At last, immediately re-season the pan with coconut oil to prevent oxidation.

• Homemade Laundry Spot Remover.

I have a problem. I am obsessively compulsive when it comes to cleaning and this habit of mine has not even spared my laundry habits. I never mix the lights with the darks and have always used good quality detergents. But ever since my tiny little one has turned into a fresh preschooler I have an additional task to deal with – Messy Spots!

Taking this problem in a stride I wiped up my very own cleaning method in a jiffy. Here is it for your aid as well.

What do you need:

• Glass/Plastic spray bottle
• 1 & a half cup of water
• Quarter cup liquid vegetable glycerine
• Quarter cup liquid castile soap
• 5-10 drops of lemon essential oil

Instructions:

1. Mix all ingredients together.
2. Store the mixture in a glass container if you are using an essential oil because lemon can disintegrate plastics.

If you are not doing to use any essential oil, the mix can then be stored in a plastic bottle with spray nozzle up top.

1. Shake well before use and apply it liberally to spots and stains.
2. Lightly rub the mixture into the fabric with your fingertips.
3. You’d get the best results in you let the fabric soak in water before tossing it into the washing machine.

Soaking overnight would yield way better results.

Notes:

• If you are worried about discolouring the fabric in question, then test it first in an inconspicuous are before applying it to the spotted area.
• Try to work the spot immediately or otherwise you might not get good results.
• If you don’t have liquid castile soap, you can use liquid dish soap instead

• DIY Homemade Laundry Stain Stick.

A laundry stick is the perfect way to pre-treat stains on the go, specially the stubborn ones like tea, coffee, lipstick, chocolate and wine.

Plus it is very easy to use as well, simply swipe it on and then toss the fabric in the washing machine to remove the stains.

What You’ll Need:

• Quarter cup shredded castile soap bar
• One-Third cup shredded Fels-Naptha soap bar
• 1 tbsp vinegar
• 1 tbsp washing soda
• 2 tbsp water
• Mixing spoon
• Small saucepan
• Grater
• Lip gloss or mini deodorant containers
• Scissors
• Plastic bag

Directions:

1. Shred and measure the Fels-Naptha and Castile soaps.
2. Add to a small saucepan.
3. Measure and add the washing soda, vinegar, and water.
4. Stir over low heat until the mixture melts together and has a pudding texture.
5. Turn off heat, and let cool for five minutes.
6. Clean and dry the lip gloss or deodorant containers.
7. While the stain stick mixture is still warm, spoon it into a plastic bag, and squeeze it into one corner.
8. Snip the edge, and pipe into the lip gloss or deodorant container, tapping on your work surface to pack the stain stick into the small holders.
9. Finish the tops by gently rubbing against the palm of your hand.
10. Once the stick has cooled, top with the cap, and it’s ready to smooth on unwanted stains!

• DIY Homemade Crayon Remover.

When it comes to a house filled with crayon loving teeny tots, seeing them create master pieces on the walls and random furniture is the greatest of worries mothers have to face. Now there is a really easy way to get rid to them. Read on to find out.

What you’ll need:

• Lemon essential oil.
• A soft cloth or rag.

Directions:

1. Apply a few drops of essential oil to the rag or cloth.
2. Scrub the place with crayon marks with the said cloth.
3. Clean the area when done with a damp rag.

There you have it… All Done!

• DIY Homemade Citrus Enzyme Cleaner.

Although bleaching clothes cleans them very easily, but using an enzyme based cleaner on them would make them even cleaner. Why? Because enzyme based cleaners can get rid of stains left by bodily fluids, like those pesky under arm stains.

Now the best news of all. Enzyme based cleaners can clean anything. And when I say anything I mean ANYTHING!

And, citrus enzyme cleaners is great because it’s:

1. Natural
   2. Cheap since you are using up kitchen scraps
   3. Effective
   4. Easy to make

You can make it at home too… But it takes at least three months for the lemons to ferment. But still, it is a small price to pay for something so damn great.

What You’ll Need:

• 2 Litre Wide Mouth Bottle 2 C or Enough citrus fruit peels to fit half the bottle. Oranges, Lemons, Lime,
• 1 Litre of water
• 1 Tsp of active yeast
• 1 C Apple Cider Vinegar
• 1/2 C Brown Sugar (or white sugar)
• Strainer or cheese cloth
• Funnel – to add brown sugar

Directions:

1. Pick a bottle that has a wide mouth and make sure to follow the proportions in this recipe.

Do NOT double the recipe in this bottle.

2. Take the scraps of citrus fruits like lemons, limes and oranges and chop them up into tiny pieces.
3. Make sure that the pieces are small enough to be able to shoved through the opening of the bottle.
4. Add water, sugar, yeast, and shake for about 30 seconds.
5. Then, close the cap LOOSELY so the trapped air can escape and not build up in the bottle.

You’ll see the foam on the top in a day or two because of yeast fermentation.

5. Shake the bottle daily for the first few days to mix the yeast and let out the air.
6. After about 2 weeks, the enzyme will look opaque. Strain the pulp and the peel.
7. Add apple cider vinegar to the liquid and store the liquid in a glass jar.

You can create an all-purpose cleaner spray bottle with 1:10 ratio to water and clean away to your heart’s content!

Or, you can use the concentration amounts that are appropriate for other cleaning uses.

So there you have it folks.

You can clean anything and everything in your house as long as you use our fore-mentioned tips, but if you can’t you always have the most reliable cleaners in London City (United Kingdom) to help you guys out.

Few Homemade Non-Toxic Cleaners to help with all your Household Cleaning (Part 4)

We did a lot of hard work and you, being the amazing people that you are applauded our efforts. For all your appreciation, we are eternally grateful to you.

Now, without further ado, let’s commence with our world-class homemade cleaner series.

All our old readers know what we are talking about, but our new ones are still a little baffled about what I am talking about. Well fret not, I will explain once again.

Most of the commercially available cleaners that are available in the stores contain harsh chemicals that contain some downright harmful chemicals that include skin and respiratory irritants and ecological contaminants.

And worse, there store bought cleaners are really EXPENSIVE!

Thus, as a step towards a healthy lifestyle and as an effort to save the planet we are here to provide you with a series of blogs each containing FIVE efficient and easy ways to make your very own homemade Cleaners that will not only aid in the cleaning process but also save you countless bucks during the process.

So without further adieu, let’s commence with the cleaning!

1. Homemade Granite Cleaner.

What are you going to need:

• 1 Cup Water
• 3 drops of dish soap
• 1/4 cup of rubbing alcohol
• You can use 5-10 drops of essential oils to mask the alcohol

Directions:

1. Put the rubbing alcohol into a spray bottle.
2. Add the dish soap, essential oil and water.
3. Give it a little shake to combine.

2. Homemade Bathtub Scrub.

What are you going to need:

• Half cup baking soda
• 3 dozen eggshells to make about 3/4 cup of calcium powder
• 15-20 drops of pure essential oil.

Directions:

1. Rinse the eggshells well with plain tap water.
2. Place 3-4 gallons of water in a large stockpot and bring to a boil.
3. Reduce heat to a gentle simmer, then carefully lower the eggshells into the water and let them cook for 10-12 minutes.
4. Remove the shells carefully and set them upside down on a baking sheet.
5. Let them air dry for 8-12 hours, then place them in a 200° degree oven until they are completely bone dry, about 10 minutes.
6. Working in batches, place the shells in a coffee grinder and process until they are completely powdered.
7. Toss the finished calcium powder with the baking soda and essential oils and mix until the oils are well-distributed and no clumps exist.
8. Spoon into a pint-sized Mason jar, then lay a piece of plastic wire mesh over the mouth. Screw on the regular lid to fit very tightly and store in a cool, dark place.

3. Homemade Oven Cleaner.

What are you going to need:

• 1/2 c. vinegar
• 1 c. boiling water
• 1/8 c. dish soap
• 1 Tbsp borax

 

Directions:

 

1. Combine everything in a spray bottle and shake well.
2. Sprinkle the inside of your oven with baking soda.
3. Spray a thick layer of the oven cleaner all around your oven.
4. Thicken the thick layer even further.
5. Sprinkle with baking soda.
6. Leave overnight.
7. In the morning, scrub it all out with a hot wet rag.

4. Homemade Jewellery Cleaner.

What are you going to need:

• Aluminium Foil
• 1 cup warm water
• 1 Tbsp Baking Soda
• Pinch of Salt

 

Directions:

1. Line a glass baking dish with aluminium foil.
2. Place your sterling silver Jewellery pieces on the foil and cover it with a thin sprinkling of baking soda.
3. Add boiling hot water to cover the jewellery.
4. Use a wooden chopstick or other non-metal utensil to gently stir the items around a bit so they all have contact with the aluminium foil at one time or another.
5. When satisfied, remove the items and rinse thoroughly under running water.
6. When done pat items dry.

Precautions:

• For more stubborn tarnish you can also assist the cleaning process by using a soft toothbrush during the rinse process.
• Please be aware of not using this method to clean pieces that contain pearls, soft stones that have not been polished professionally like turquoise.
• Never add ivory, opals, or any precious stone that may have enhancements or treatments such as wax or oils that are often used on sapphires, rubies, and emeralds!

5. Homemade Silver Cleaner.

What are you going to need:

• 1 Teaspoon Salt
• Aluminum Foil
• 2 Tablespoons Baking Soda

 

Directions:

1. Take a glass dish.
2. Place your aluminium foil in this, shiny side up.
3. Grab your silver items and place them in the bottom.
4. Next, boil some water and then pour it over the silver.
5. Make sure that you completely cover the items with water so that it all gets cleaned.
6. Now put the baking soda and salt in.

The baking soda will actually cause the water to bubble and boil more so don’t be alarmed, that is what it does.

1. Leave it like this for 30 minutes.
2. When the time is up take a pair of tongs or anything to grab them with and wipe them down and dry them off.

So this is it for this week my lovelies….

You can always take our advice and get down and dirty or…

You can always hire the best cleaning services London City (United Kingdom) can offer.

 

Until the next time,

Stay GOLDEN!

Few Homemade Non-Toxic Cleaners to help with all your Household Cleaning (Part 1)

Most of the commercially available cleaners that are available in the stores contain harsh chemicals that contain some downright harmful chemicals that include skin and respiratory irritants and ecological contaminants.

And worse, there store bought cleaners are really EXPENSIVE!

Thus, as a step towards a healthy lifestyle and as an effort to save the planet we are here to provide you with a series of blogs each containing FIVE efficient and easy ways to make your very own homemade Cleaners that will not only aid in the cleaning process but also save you a lot of your hard earned money during the process.

So without further adieu, let’s commence with the cleaning!

1. Homemade all-purpose spray with non-leaching bottles.

Mommypotamus knows her stuff when it comes to DIY cleaners. I especially appreciate this post for its info on how to store your homemade all-purpose cleaner. So here is the way as to how she makes it and how you can make one too.

Ingredients

• 1 cup water
• 2 teaspoons castile soap
• 20 drops essential oil (see below for options)

Instructions

1. Pour ingredients into a spray bottle, preferably made of glass
2. Shake well before use
3. Store in a cool, dark place. (Essential oils oxidize in sunlight)

Choosing your essential oils:

In various studies, these oils have demonstrated potent antimicrobial properties. Some are more effective in killing e. coli, while others are more effective with salmonella, etc., so it’s best to use them blended together.

Though I do try to make cleaners and beauty products that are safe enough to eat, I don’t recommend ingestion of essential oils in general. Some can be used as flavorings and there are times in which I might use them internally, but it is not a practice I take lightly. Also, some oils can cause respiratory problems in susceptible children, so I’ve marked the ones that are generally considered safe for use around kiddos. All essential oil solutions should be kept out of children’s reach.

• lavender – kid friendly
• lemon – kid friendly, and especially helpful in the kitchen as a degreaser
• grapefruit – kid friendly
• pine – kid friendly
• cinnamon
• tea tree – kid friendly
• clove
• eucalyptus
• peppermint – fine for kids over six
• rosemary
• oregano
• spruce – kid friendly

 

2. Homemade all-purpose spray.

This is the recipe I love and use in my own home – currently I love to make it as Fresh Mint & Grapefruit All-Purpose Spray. Makes my bedrooms smell divine… especially after a good dust busting.

3. Homemade DIY All Purpose Pine Cleaner.

. My grandparents use to live in the country and I remember waking up to the scent of pine trees. Nothing reminds me more of my childhood then the scent of Pine which is why I love it when my kitchen smells like it too.

So, here is the way how you can have your kitchen (and the rest of your house too) smell like it.

Ingredients

• 32 ounces hot water
• 1-1/2 teaspoons liquid castile soap such as Dr. Bronner’s (see note below)
• 6 drops fir needle essential oil
• 4 drops rosemary essential oil

 

Procedure

The water should be hot, to ensure better blending of the ingredients. The quantities of essential oils are adjustable to your personal preferences — feel free to use either more or less. Mix well and store in a spray bottle. I spray the solution directly onto the floor and use my microfiber mop. No rinsing was needed.

 

Additional Notes

Liquid castile soap (named after Castile, Spain — a region known for its olive oil) is an ingredient commonly used in homemade cleaners and some toiletries. It is a soap made from vegetable oils like palm, coconut, and olive. While it is available scented, I prefer to use a mild, unscented variety and add my own scent if necessary.

So as you can very well tell, the results are very satisfying.

 

4. Homemade DIY Detergent and Rinse agent.

DIY Natural’s recipe is the gold standard of DIY dish detergents. You won’t be disappointed!

Ingredients

• 1 cup borax
• 1 cup washing soda
• ½ cup citric acid
• ½ cup kosher salt (for scrubbing action)

 

Procedure

Just take all the required ingredients and mix them up in a Glass jar.

 

Additional Note

Use 1 Tbsp per load (you can use a heaping tablespoon if you feel the need, but we do not).

 

5. DIY Dishwater Detergent tabs.

If you like to have the convenience of little dishwasher pucks, this is a fun recipe to pop into your machine for sparkling clean dishes.

 

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 cups citric acid
• 1 cup washing soda
• 1 cup coarse salt

 

Procedure

Stir all ingredients together well, then let sit for about an hour until the mixture starts to bubble. Have 2-3 silicone ice cube trays or other flexible molds at the ready.

When you notice the mixture beginning to bubble, stir well, then spoon it evenly into the molds and pack the mixture down well. Every few minutes, dampen your hands and tamp each puck down again firmly.

After about an hour, the pucks will stop fizzing and seize into very hard pucks. Pop them out and break off any hard edges or lines that will prevent them from fitting in the detergent container in your dishwasher.

Store in a dry, tightly sealed container. Use 1 puck per load.

Additional Note

The citric acid is the magic ingredient for getting these to harden, so they take a bit of babysitting to harden as pucks rather than puffy balls. As the citric acid absorbs moisture, it fizzes and creates air bubbles, so you’ll need to tamp them down every few minutes over the course of an hour or so.

 

So that is it for today folks….

I hope the DIY cleaners up-top help you out on the quest to keeping the planet green and your home toxins free…

And if that doesn’t work out for you, you always have us at Prudent Cleaning Services (London, UK) to help you out.

Stay tuned for more

&

Happy Cleaning…

What should be the part of your Essential Everyday Toolbox?

Whether you’re a rookie handyman or a seasoned do-it-yourselfer, a range of basic tools is essential to doing the small jobs around the house. Pick a place for your cache of tools—a kitchen drawer, maybe, a carton in the hall closet, or even a real toolbox—and make a point of always returning the ones you use to their designated home.

What tools will you need?

Your skills and the kinds of jobs you do must be your guide, but a good basic selection would include a tape measure, square, and torpedo level for measuring and setting.

A handsaw or handheld circular saw, a utility knife, a cordless drill, and maybe a glass cutter will take care of your cutting and drilling tasks.

For fastening, how about a small set of screwdrivers, a staple gun, pairs of electrician’s, waterpump, and locking pliers, and a hammer?

Tape Measure

Few tools translate to so many trades, from dressmaking to dressing stone—the convenient and compact tape measure makes all kinds of jobs possible.

Also called a push-pull tape, the basic tape measure is spring loaded so that the tape retracts into its metal or plastic case when not in use. It comes in all sorts of sizes, from 3-foot key-chain sized rules to bulky 25-foot flexible rules.

Tape measures have blades (as the tapes themselves are officially known) that come in 1/2-inch, 3/4-inch, and 1-inch widths. Wider tapes are bulkier, but also have the advantage of extending farther without the supporting hand of an assistant at the other end. A good size for most around-the-house jobs is a 3/4-inch-wide, 16-foot-long tape measure.

Combination Square

As with any square, the principle job of a combination square is to advise its user when the relationship of two sides of an object is a true 90-degree angle.

The combination square is adjustable, consisting of a rigid steel rule, typically 12 inches long, with a headpiece that slides along its length. The headpiece has both a 90-degree edge and one that forms a 45-degree angle with respect to the rule. It’s ideal for marking (and checking) both 90-degree crosscuts and mitre cuts.

The combination square can be used to determine the squareness of a piece or joint or as a saw guide when using a handheld circular saw. When the head is set at the end of the rule, the combination square can measure heights, and it can be adjusted to measure depths. It’s very handy for marking, and there’s even a bubble level in its handle, enabling the tool to be used for leveling.

Torpedo Level

Usually 9 inches long and tapered at both ends, this handy tool is also known as a canoe or boat-shaped level. Inside the plastic, wood, or metal body of the torpedo level are two or three spirit tubes.

These sealed vials contain water, alcohol, or another clear liquid. Each tube or vial is slightly curved with two parallel lines drawn at its centre. The vial is not quite full, leaving space for an all-important air bubble. The bubble vial has been precisely mounted so that when the bubble is aligned between the hairlines, it indicates that the body of the level, and thus the object being trued, is at true vertical or horizontal, depending upon how the vial in mounted in the level.

Handsaws

Even in this age of power tools, the traditional handsaw has many uses. It’s quiet, portable, easy to use, requires no electrical power, and can finish more than a few jobs the basic hand-held circular saw cannot. It’s also inexpensive and poses little risk to little hands.

The basic handsaw has a blade roughly two feel long that tapers from the heel (at the handle) to its toe. The most common use is simple cut-off work when it’s quicker to grab a handsaw than it is to run an extension cord to do the job with a power saw.

Approach a handsaw as if to shake hands, grabbing its closed wood or plastic handle. The flat blade, typically of steel, will flex from side to side. The teeth may be designed for cutting across the grain (crosscut saws) or for cutting with it (ripsaws). A 10- or 12-tooth crosscut saw of 22 inches is a good basic saw that can also rip a board if necessary.

Electric Drill

This is one versatile tool—it will drill holes, sand and grind, stir paint, and drive screws and good basic electric drills start at a very modest price.

The basic electric drill consists of a motor built into a pistol-shaped body. Instead of a gun barrel, though, there’s a gripping device called a chuck into which one of a wide variety of bits or drill is inserted. Older models lock the bits in place using a key that tightens the chuck, but most new drills use a keyless chuck that requires only the grip of your hand to tighten it. It’s a good innovation that makes changing bits much quicker and easier.

Another recent shift is to cordless drills. The initial cost is significantly is higher, but for the extra money there’s a big jump in convenience. It’s a judgment call, but if the price doesn’t seem prohibitive, the gain in flexibility is probably worth the extra investment.

Claw Hammer

When most people think of a hammer, the image of a claw hammer comes to mind. The head has a face that is used to drive nails, on the opposite side of the head is a two-pronged claw that is used to pull nails out of wood. The head is steel, the handle can be of fiberglass, wood (typically hickory), or steel. Fiberglass and steel hammers usually have rubber, plastic, or vinyl handles for a sure grip and shock absorption.

The claw hammer may be the carpenter’s most essential tool, but not all hammers are the same. They range in size from small tack hammers to huge framing hammers that are 18 inches long and weight almost two pounds. For most people, a good general purpose hammer is moderate in size, weighing perhaps 16 ounces with a 16-inch handle. The heads vary greatly, too, with flattened or curved claws. Chose a smaller hammer for finer work, go larger if you plan to drive large nails.

Screwdrivers

Most screwdrivers share an overall design, consisting of a steel shaft called a shank, a tip called a blade, and a handle. But there are lots of variations in blades and handles, not to mention the oddball screwdrivers that have no shafts at all but instead use ratchets offset at a 90-degree angle to the tip to drive screws in confined spaces.

Most handles are bulb-shaped, large enough to be gripped comfortably in the palm of the hand. Electrician’s screwdrivers usually have plastic handles—the plastic insulates the user from the risk of electric shock. Wooden-handled drivers are more often found in woodshops. Auto mechanics tend to favour drivers that have rubber sleeves on the handles for a firm grip. Drivers can be long or short, ranging from stubbies about 2-1/2 inches long to specialty drivers 2 feet or more.

C-Clamps and Bar Clamps

The clamp is a simple tool, consisting of a pair of jaws drawn together with a tightening mechanism, typically a screw driver. When working with wood in particular, a clamp is essential for pulling together the pieces to be glued and for holding them tight and flush until the glue sets.

While there are lots of types of clamps, for most around-the-house jobs, C-clamps or bar clamps will do the work. C-clamps have jaws in the shape of the letter C, with metal shoes at the top and bottom to grip the work piece. Bar clamps are usually larger, with a fixed jaw at one end of the bar and another on a tail slide that moves up or down its length. The pressure is exerted by both C-clamps and bar clamps by the screw driver, typically driven by a T bar that forms a handle.

A recent variation on the traditional bar clamp is the quick-grip clamp. These rely on a pistol-squeeze action. Quick-grips don’t have the same clamping power as bar clamps but have cushioned jaws and are easier to use.

Random Orbital Sander

A convenient, one-handed tool, the random orbital sander is driven by an electric motor. The motor spins a shaft on which a counterweight is mounted. The combination of the weight, the spinning shaft, and an offset thrust bearing produces a random, varying motion. Which is to say, it spins and wiggles, never the same way twice, and does a neat job, producing little or no scratching across the grain. The motion also tends to clean the sandpaper, avoiding the clogged surfaces common to straight-line sanders.

The random orbital sander uses prefabricated sandpaper disks, available from coarse to fine, which will remove lots of material quickly or produce a fine finish. Depending upon the manufacturers, the sandpaper is attached with either hook-and-loop (Velcro) or pressure sensitive (adhesive) backings.
Random orbital sanders are sold as single-speed and variable-speed models. Most come with a dust bag attachment, which also reduces the frequency with which the dust clogs the paper and results in a somewhat cleaner work area.

Staple Gun

The staple gun can be used to fasten all kinds of materials in home construction and maintenance work. Roofing contractors, insulation installers, carpenters, and all kinds of homeowners and hobbyists find a multitude of uses for staplers every day.

The staple gun is no more than the larger, tougher sibling of the desk stapler that’s a fixture in every office. The ammunition is bigger, as most guns take staples that are 1/4 inch to 9/16 inch long, the width of the staples varies with the manufacturer.

Staple guns come in hand-powered and electric models. The most common variety is powered by a spring: a large lever built into the handle at the top acts as trigger, and the spring squeezes out a staple when the gun is pressed into the workpiece. Electric models are faster and easier to use, another type, the hammer stapler is swung like a hammer. It’s great for construction jobs but not for delicate ones.

Locking Pliers

These adjustable pliers are useful as a hand-held vice or clamp. They lock firmly onto a work piece, usually one of metal. They are also known as plier wrenches, lever-wrench pliers and by the proprietary name Vice grips.

The key is the double-lever action of the jaws. Like other pliers, the jaws of the locking pliers are closed by squeezing the handles together, unlike water pumps, electrician’s, and other pliers, the jaw opening is adjusted by turning a screw driver in one handle so the jaws will close with a vice-like grip. A trigger on the other handle loosens the grip, which can apply tremendous force.

Locking pliers are sold in several designs (with long nose, flat-jawed, and even C-clamp jaws), but the standard design has serrated, straight jaws. A pair in the eight- to ten-inch long range will have the most uses in the basic toolbox.

Bevel Gauge

Though the bevel gauge is a near relation of the square, its purpose is to help fabricate pieces that are not square.

The tool consists of a handle (or stock) with an attached tongue (or blade). The tongue fits into a groove cut into the head of the stock where it’s fastened with a locking mechanism. Often the tongue is made of thin steel and the stock of wood, plastic, or metal.

To put the tool to use, hold the stock against an edge with the tongue stretched across the work piece. The tongue can then be shifted to assume any angle between zero and 180 degrees. When the bevel gauge is set at the angle you want, use the bolt and wing nut or lever device to set the tool at the desired angle.

Carpenter’s Square

The carpenter’s square isn’t a four-sided figure. It’s really a giant L, usually with a 2-inch-wide, 24-inch-long leg perpendicular to a 1-1/2-inch-wide, 16-inch-long tongue.

The most common use, as one of its nicknames suggests, is for framing, laying out and marking patterns for framing, roofing, and stairway work. It’s also useful as a straightedge for determining the flatness of surface, and for marking cutoff work on wide stock. Call it almost anything you like—including rafter square, builder’s square, or roofer’s square — but this is a tool that has lots of uses.

The calibrations on the face of a carpenter’s square will include dimensions, usually down to eighths of an inches, but sometimes on the back there’ll be tens or even twelfths of an inch for roofing layout.

Plumb Bob

The plumb bob or plumb line employs the laws of gravity to establish what is “plumb” (exactly vertical). You don’t need a graduate degree in physics to understand that a string suspended with a weight at the bottom will be both precisely vertical AND perpendicular to any level plane through which it passes. The plumb bob, obviously, is the companion tool to the level.

A homemade plumb can consist of most any bit of string with a weight tied its end (a couple of washers, say, or a lead sinker from a fishing line. But the factory-made plumb bob has a specially designed weight and coarse string of twisted cotton or nylon threads (masons prefer the nylon because it stands up better over time to the dampness that comes with working with water and mortar). Well-machined and well-balanced bobs have pointed tips, too, that make them more precise to use.

Handheld Circular Saw

With the possible exception of the electric drill, the Skilsaw® or circular handsaw is the power tool most often found in the average homeowner’s tool chest. It’s easy to use, affordable, and astonishingly flexible and practical.

It’s designed to cut boards to size, typically using a 7-1/4-inch-diameter blade. An electric motor, protected in a housing, drives the blade that is, in turn, protected by a fixed guard on top and retractable guard below. Add a handle, a sole plate or shoe on the bottom, and you’ve got all the parts. Plug it in and go.

One warning, though: This is no toy. It’s a powerful and efficient tool, but one that poses a real danger if not used with respect and care. Keep it well out of reach of the under-18 set.

You can take it from there. Add what you need, like chisels, a sander, and some clamps, and supplies, too, like sandpaper, nails, glue, screws, and so on. Don’t necessarily tool up all at once—that could feel expensive—but do buy tools of good quality rather than the cheap and flimsy ones on sale. Better tools last and last, and get you through many jobs, those you do both for recreation and in an emergency.